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Check that the pits are the same size all over and that the pits in the glass are all of the same, finer size than those of the previous grit that was used. ( You need to check this smoothness after each size of grit used. ) Once the surface is properly smoothed, take 'time-out' to check the center of curvature and the resulting focal length. This can be done a few different ways: Firstly if you have a sunny day (always the optimist) you can take it outside, and dip it into a bucket of water to wet the surface.

We are ready to install the eyepiece tube. If a hole-cutter is unavailable, a mat knife may be used. Mission accomplished! Hint: Save this piece, just in case you made a boo-boo here! It will be much easier to patch up, if necessary, with this piece still around! The cardboard eyepiece tube should fit snugly through the hole. If it is too tight, file or pare the hole a little bigger. htm (10 of 12) [9/6/2001 11:33:23 AM] Section A of Making a Telescope Eyepiece tube in place. If we have not already painted the inside of the telescope tube, we now need to paint at least the section visible through the eyepiece tube black .

Do NOT let this 1" forward confuse you; this is just an approximation of the center of the triangle the three feet make. The three sides of this triangle are not equal--the front side of the triangle--the one with a foot in each corner is longer than the other two sides pointing back to the other foot. ) Drill a hole on this mark for the lag screw. This hole should be three sixteenths of an inch smaller in diameter than the lag screw (5/16") to insure a tight, threaded fit. Be careful to drill this hole as square as possible (have a friend "sight" for you as you drill).

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Telescope making manual

by Charles

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